Bar Lyon is modeled after the bouchon, a traditional Lyonnaise bistro. It feels just so, without being too-too: tile floors, zinc bar, gleaming open kitchen at back, and a beautifully classic menu and French wine list. Start with gougeres and a cocktail at the bar, then move to a banquette for terrine en croute, coq au vin, and bavette steak au poivre with potato confit. The must-order dish is the Lyonnaise specialty quenelle de brochet, a quenelle of pike with crawfish tails in lobster veloute; if you're feeling more casual, there's always "Le Burger."